My Philosophy

This class has opened my eyes to the world of blogs.  I had never read a blog, let alone written one before January.  I have taken a liking to them, I love how every one is a little different, and each blogger brings a different perspective to the world of fashion.  If I were to start a personal style blog, my philosophy would be about challenging the norms of fashion.  Although everyone says that fashion is always changing, I have noticed some developing norms that I wish to challenge.  

The main norm that I have a very hard time with is size.  Even though there has been a wave of awareness and support for plus sized models, tiny models still dominate the fashion.  I think that this causes a lot of damage, no matter how small, to girls' self-esteem and confidence.  I am an average size, definitely not a size 0, and not plus size.  I am a size 6, yet I feel chunky compared to the standard that girls face every day on television, magazine covers, etc.  I have curves (which I like), but I am still self-conscious about how I look in a bathing suit or tight dress.  If I feel this way, I know lots of other girls do too, and to me, this is a HUGE problem.  One that I wish to exterminate.

   

In my blog, I would like to challenge these notions and communicate how size is an indicator of absolutely nothing.  I would like to educate readers on how curves used to be adored in past generations, and through the years, the standard for models has gotten smaller and smaller.  The definition of beauty has changed, leaving beautiful, curvaceous girls feeling like they are fat.  I want to promote body confidence because every shape is beautiful.  There is a way to dress every body type, and my blog will cover tricks and tips like that.  

Notice at the very end of the video, the "postmodern beauty" look is commonly achieved through plastic surgery. 

 

Another norm I see in fashion is that it's not cool, stylish, or "in" if it's not a brand name.  It's great if you can afford brands like Louis Vuitton, Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Chanel, and Prada.  Or more accessible brands like Michael Kors, Coach, and Calvin Klein.  However, I believe that if you cannot afford brands such as these, you should not be made to feel inferior.  

            

My blog will promote individuality.  I will show how two pieces of clothing can be so similar, and the one with the name brand tag on the inside will cost so much more than the one made by an unknown or less popular brand.  In my opinion, in that case, you are simply paying all that extra money for a small tag with a "special" name on it.  Brands do not define you.  A brand is a brand.  In my blog, I will explore how popular name brands came to be so popular, and what it is about them that is so alluring to some.  I will explore what alternatives girls can take to buck the system and go against the grain.  

I want my blog to challenge the norms of fashion in many ways.  I want to empower girls to take what they see in advertisements and in society with a grain of salt.  They say that necessity is the mother of invention, and this is the reason for the philosophy behind the fashion blog I would start.  I need something like this in my life, and I know that others do too.  I know that this may be flying in the face of what others think of fashion, but I am willing to do that if it means helping girls gain confidence, individuality, and a sense of beauty.  Together we can challenge the norms of fashion. 

                                                         

My Relationship with Clothes

 

Before completing the survey in Women in Clothes, I thought that I did not really have much of a relationship with my clothes.  I think for a young girl in college, on a budget, usually spending most of my time studying or working, my relationship with my clothes was an average one.  I buy what I like, but usually only if it is affordable.  I do enjoy dressing up, I love to shop, but I would by no means call myself a fashionista.  I do not know much about style, and do not keep up with fashion magazines or fashion designers.  All that aside, as you can tell from my closet inventory... I do have a lot of clothes, and I like putting them together to form different outfits.  I almost always put something decent together even just to run out to the store.

However, upon further examination, I found that there was a hidden relationship with my clothes that I had never seemed to realize.  I actually do have clothing rules that I think everyone should follow.  Here are a few: 

#1  What you wear should always fit.  Buying something you like in a size that is too small, just because you want to know and say that it's only a size ____ is a mistake.  Get the size that fits you, no matter what the number is.  

#2  Wear what you LIKE.  Do not settle for anything.  Do not wear what everyone else is wearing just to fit in if you do not like it.  Wear what makes you happy, because at the end of the day, that is very important.  I know when I wear an outfit I really like, I feel beautiful and it puts me in a good mood for the day.  

Notice the smiles!

Additionally, as it turns out, I do follow shopping habits.  I shy away from shopping online because I believe fit is very important, and it's always a risk if you cannot try it on (plus, returns are a hassle online).  I usually am always looking.  I do not usually only look for one piece at a time, so if it speaks to me and I really like something I find, I will buy it.  Also, I usually do not save up for certain pieces, simply because I am on a budget, so not many items in my closet came with a hefty price tag.  The exception to that is bags and shoes.  I will splurge every so often to reward myself for hard work.

 

 

As for sharing clothes, I do not do it often as I have no sisters.  Occasionally, I will share sweaters and cardigans with my mother (she seems to be the queen of cardigans).  She will sometimes do the same, although most of the time I borrow her sweaters.  We have very different styles, but she does have some pieces that I really do like.  Sharing does not make me uncomfortable or uneasy because my mother and I are very close.  Since I do not have a sister, I enjoy sharing things with my mother.

 

My perspective on my relationship with clothes has definitely been altered.  Before completing this survey, I did not realize that I had a relationship with my clothes.  But as you (and I) can now see from the text above, I clearly have some opinions about my clothes in regards to style, dressing rules, shopping habits, sharing clothes, and more.  It is actually exciting, in a way, to have this newfound, newly realized relationship with my clothes.  It actually makes me more willing to experiment with style and feel more confident in my taste and choices!  Maybe I'm on my way to becoming a fashionista...

 

New York Fashion Week: What Does it Cost?

From the clothes, to the lights, to the celebrities, New York Fashion week grabs your full attention, but what many do not think about is what it takes to put the production together.  The cost of putting New York Fashion Week together is not set in stone, and there is a lot of variation in expense. Designers and brands have to pay for things like the venue, styling, production, hair and makeup, models, livestreaming, and sometimes even celebrities.  The cost of each of these elements varies greatly, and it can depend on many factors such as how much the venue owner, producer, or model wants to work with a designer or brand.

The Theater at Lincoln Center is New York Fashion Week's largest venue.  This venue can cost $15,000 for the hub and upwards of $60,000 for the stage.  Other venues that are less central can cost less, and custom spaces can cost even more.  The cost of a venue at New York Fashion Week simply depends on location.

 

 Lincoln Center

The stylist a designer chooses to use depends on preference.  A designer may use a stylist they have known and worked with, some may use an in-house stylist, and others may style a show themselves.  Each of these options will cost significantly less than if a designer uses a top-tier stylist, which can run them $8,000 a day for ten to fourteen days.  A stylist less in demand will run around $10,000 for the whole job.  

Production costs are usually around $10,000 to $20,000, depending if the designer is on retainer with the firm.

Typically, 10 to 20 models are required for a show at New York Fashion Week, depending on if models wear more than one look.  The cost per model can vary quite a bit from $150 from smaller companies, to $200 to $500 for larger companies.  The cost can rise even more for international brands with a range of $800 to $1,000.  Designers will spend a very big chunk of money on models for their show, especially as the number of models increases.

Designers paying celebrities to sit front row has become a much less common expense since it is not a necessity.  That being said, if a designer did want to pay a celebrity to sit "FROW", the cost could range from $15,000 to $100,000 depending on the celebrity, how famous, how well he/she represents the brand, and if he/she is attending other shows, among other things.

Livestreaming is a newer concept that allows many more people to watch from home.  Sometimes it is included in show packages, but if not, designers can expect to pay anywhere from $20,000 to $50,000. 

An interesting point is that, even with all of these expenses, designers catch a break when it comes to hair and makeup.  Hair and makeup services often do not need to be paid for.  Sometimes, beauty companies will actually pay designers for the honor of being chosen to be the hair and makeup sponsor for a show.  Designers can make $5,000 to $15,000 in this case.

All of these elements for a fashion show at New York Fashion Week add up quickly, and an average price is around $200,000!  However, the cost for the whole production, everything included, can vary greatly, as mentioned.  Each element of the show has a range in price, and the expenses are dependent on so many factors.  To give you an idea of how much the cost can differ, Marc Jacobs' fall 2011 show cost at least $1,000,000! 

 

 Two pieces from Marc Jacobs' Fall 2011 collection

To reflect on this, I believe that the cost of running a show at New York fashion week is outrageous.  However, fashion is an institution, and it requires constantly new and innovative ideas.  Fashion is always changing, and what better way to present fresh ideas than with an expensive production that millions of people can see (thanks to livestreaming).  While expensive and maybe excessive, Fashion Week is an excellent platform for designers to show us what they've got!  I certainly enjoy seeing the clothes that come down the runway.  Fashion week serves as a platform for designers and buyers, employment for many stylists and models, material for fashion bloggers, and a destination for all things fashion.
 

 

ASPIRATIONS: WHO DO I WANT TO BE?

Who am I?  What do my clothes say about me?  

My clothes reveal to the world that I am girly, young, fresh, yet conservative- sort of like the girl next door.  I like who I am and the story that my clothes tell.  I feel as though they accurately portray who I am on the inside.  However, there are always aspirations at play that motivate us all to continuously better ourselves in order to satisfy the almost insatiable desire to be truly happy and confident.

What are my aspirations?  Who do I want to be? 

I suppose that my aspirations are to be more of a free spirit- more of a carefree, go-with-the-flow, no stress kind of girl, in both my attitude and presentation through clothing.  I aspire to embody those attributes, and possibly the best way to start is through clothing.  Easy, breezy, light, and flowing clothing captures the essence of a free spirit in my opinion. 

                                        

                                           Free People's May 2015 ad campaign

                            

                                             Free people April 2016 collection                                                        

                                                  From Free People editorial 

The brand Free People embodies my style aspirations.  They market an image of free-thinkers, artists, and dreamers, femininity, courage, and spirit.  Free people strives to create clothes for adventurous, free girls in their twenties who are sweet, tough, and romantic.

The images above portray a sense of effortlessness and ease.  The models in Free People campaigns exude a certain spirit that I'm sure we all dream of.  It almost seems like they are indulging in an endless adventure with friends and fabulous clothing in their well-traveled suit cases.  Even down to the color editing, the ads have an indescribable dreamy quality with milky, subdued hues. 

Unfortunately, the image Free People markets may not be entirely attainable.  Most of us do not have endless summers and never-ending adventures, nor do we see the world in a muted, soft palette.  We do not have the luxury of casting away every worry in reality to be truly free.  The company may use aesthetic symbols in their ads such as soft lines, sepia tones, and a setting sun casting elongated shadows upon sweet faces and gentle rays on beachy, waved hair to create a possibly intangible image.  The flowy, white layers, lace, and even fringe worn by beautiful, thin, porcelain skinned twenty-something-year-olds only add to the image they have created.

Although some images portrayed by Free People's ads may seem out of reach, their ideals can be worked for, and are quite rewarding if achieved.  Free People designs for girls who are aspiring to be free.  You do not necessarily have to be everything the brand embodies in order to wear their clothing.  That is the beauty of it- for some, once you put on the clothing, you are one step closer to being courageous and full of life and spirit.  The company does not use celebrities in their ad campaigns.  Could this be because they want to have an image that is attainable?  Celebrities can be intimidating, even though we may desire to be like them, or look up to them.  An unknown girl, however, may be more relatable.  

Overall, I love who the girl is that Free People designs for.  I love that the brand is all about free-spirits and dreamers, about being a courageous, feminine spirit that is full of life.  I do not think that the brand has a totally unattainable image, and to whatever part may be unattainable- I say, that is part of the fun.  To strive for more!  Where is the fun in staying stagnant?  Improve, change your style, try new things, until you are happy and most importantly- CONFIDENT!

Closet Inventory

I thought I knew the depth of my closet, but boy was I wrong!  After my closet inventory, I was simply shocked at the sheer number of garments I had.  I knew I liked to shop (a lot), but I did not know how much my clothes had built up!  Just to give you a sense of what I am talking about, here are some numerical values to chew on.

I own:

92 shirts

15 promotional tee shirts

52 dresses (This includes many casual sun dresses but also quite some gowns and cocktail dresses)

58 pairs of pants (12 of which are jeans)

13 skirts

58 coats, jackets, and sweatshirts

FOR A GRAND TOTAL OF...... 288 garments (excluding undergarments and jammies)

This seems excessive now that I have put numbers to the contents of my closet.

Now, lets talk about where all these clothes are made.  I checked the tags and found that a majority of the garments I own were made in China.  A smaller majority, while still a significant amount, were made in Vietnam.  I also found a decent amount of clothes made in the USA to my surprise!  I shop a whole lot at TJMaxx and I found that a large majority of the garments purchased there were made in America!  The rest of my garments came in small numbers from Mexico, India, Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Bangladesh, Taiwan, Swaziland, and Honduras.  Interestingly, I own a few pieces of clothing from my vacations to Scotland, and I checked the tags to see where they were make, and I could not find a country's name anywhere!

       

Side note: I recently went into H&M with a friend because she needed a basic white tee shirt.  At the checkout, there was a large illuminated sign stating this: "Better cotton is better fashion.  As a part of our journey towards truly sustainable fashion, H&M has committed to using only sustainably sourced cotton by 2020.  Learn more about our action for a sustainable fashion future at hm.com/conscious."  This is interesting because as seen in the movie in class, H&M had no comment when put under fire about the unethical manufacturing they continue to do.  Many stores and brand can make it look like they are making strides toward being sustainable, but they leave out the whole picture that there are still ethical problems with their system.

Do I even need all of these garments?  It seems like I certainly do not wear all 288 of them.  I would say that I wear 75% of all of my dresses, being that that is my favorite article of clothing.  I certainly do not wear all 92 shirts I own.  I have a favorite few shirts that I wear much more often (like sleeveless dressy tanks that I usually put under cardigans), but overall, I would say I wear less than 50% of my shirts.  My pants are a sad story because I have my favorite pair, medium wash, skinny jeggings from American Eagle, (as I am sure everyone does) and I wear them way too much.  Then I have 4-5 other pairs I wear very often, and the other 50 or so pairs just sit in my dresser.  I do wear skirts a lot in the spring and summer, but that is only a few months out of the year, so they do not get as much use as they could.  And last, my coats, jackets, and sweatshirts... I would say that I loyally wear maybe 5 of my favorites (like my gray Columbia zip up) out of 58.

                          

Most of my wardrobe was bought new, around 75%.  About 20% of my wardrobe was received as gifts from friends and family.  The other 5% is a combination of promotional tee shirts and items bought used.

Doing this closet inventory really make me take a step back and look at the bigger picture.  I certainly do not need all the clothes that I have, and I would benefit greatly from a good closet clean-out.  I was simply astounded at the sheer number of garments I had.  This has definitely made me consider my consumption habits.  I now think before I walk into fast fashion stores.  I would love to make strides toward being an ethical consumer, but there are challenges before I get there.  I have to curb my countless shopping trips, and avoid buying clothes not made by underpaid, under aged children in poorly maintained factories under unfair working conditions.  In the long run, stepping away from fast fashion, and into clothes that are ethically made and have higher quality is a step in the right direction.  If every person who shops mainly in fast fashion stores makes the commitment to buy just a few less garments there, and a few more garments produced ethically, we could be on the road leading to ethical consumption.